quinta-feira, 31 de janeiro de 2013

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830 - SIHH 2013





 



The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 42mm x 8.8mm. It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back and it is water resistant to 50 meters.



Movement is the Swiss manual-wind LaJoux-Perret caliber 7381 with 21 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 90 hours (via double barrels). It is adjusted to five positions, with Perlage and Cotes de Geneva decoration.

By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com
 

Hublot Big Bang Ferrari - Pre-Basel 2013


A fantastic first year of collaboration between Ferrari and Hublot is coming to an end. This has been highly successful, both commercially, with the two first Big Bangs in titanium and Magic Gold - the famous first ever scratch-resistant 18-carat gold invented by Hublot - and promotionally, with more than 130 events. This success is welcomed by Jean-Claude Biver, Chairman of Hublot, and Ricardo Guadalupe, the CEO of Hublot, and is already sparking ideas for new models. There are three which are already part of the Big Bang 45 mm family:

The first is the aptly named Big Bang Ferrari "Red Magic Carbon": It is the new symbol of the brand's progress towards verticalisation, with its case and its movement designed, developed, and produced entirely at the Hublot manufacture.

The UNICO movement is designed, developed, machined and assembled by the micro- mechanical engineers, engineers and watchmakers at Hublot. A practical flyback chronograph which can be reset at any time, and which is unique in the watchmaking industry, two push- buttons, with date indicator, and featuring a uniquely positioned mechanism with dual coupling and the famous "column wheel" visible on the dial side. Its development required a completely original approach and thinking outside the box: For example, the hour counter is driven directly by the barrel, and there is no jumper in the chronograph mechanism. This simplification boosts reliability and robustness. Its pallet fork and escapement wheel are fixed to a removable platform and are made from silicon, whose lightness provides a guarantee of performance. Its construction, which incorporates just 330 components, has been simplified as much as possible in order to further increase robustness.

This result is the fruit of continual adjustments made since 2009, the year it was launched, which have been carried out jointly by the technical office, the laboratory and the after-sales service in the manufacture. Its frequency of 4hz/28,800 vibrations per hour and its immaculate finish are also a guarantee of high chronometric quality. Finally, its automated production, which includes automation of the machining, stone fitting, oiling and numerous assembly operations also ensures consistent, controlled quality. Its power reserve is around 72 hours.


By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com

Zenith Christophe Colomb Academy Hurricane - Pre-Basel 2013

 



Limited Edition of 25 Pieces


The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 45mm x 14.3mm (21.4mm counting the sapphire glass extrusion for the gravity control cage. The crystal is an AR-coated sapphire, as is the display back, and it is water resistant to 30 meters.



Movement is the Swiss manual-wind Zenith in-house caliber El Primero 8805 with 53 jewels, 36,000 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours.



The movement is comprised of 939 parts, with the gravity control module having 575 parts.
The strap is brown alligator with rubber lining and 18kt rose gold triple folding clasp.

 

Breguet Type XXII Flyback Chronograph Gold - Pre-Basel 2013




Type XXII 3880, The First Series-Made Mechanical Chronograph with a 10 Hz Frequency (72,000 vph) New Version in Rose Gold

The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 44mm. It has a sapphire crystal and it is water resistant to 100 meters.

Movement is the Swiss automatic Breguet in-house caliber 589F with 27 jewels, 72,000 vph, and a power reserve of 40 hours. It features a high frequency silicon escapement, a Breguet balance-wheel with regulating screws, and a silicon balance-spring. It is adjusted to 5 positions.

The dial, in brown, features luminous hands and hour-markers and a chapter ring with Arabic numerals. Red chronograph's seconds hand on a 30-second basis at the center, Half-minute totalizer at the centerm 24 hour indicator at 3 o'clock, Second time zone indicator at 6 o'clock with luminous Arabic numerals, Small seconds on a 30-second basis at 9 o'clock. Date in an aperture at 6 o'clock.

The minutes graduation in the form of dashes one red and the other white situated on the flange, combined with the numbered seconds graduation also appearing in red and white, serves to establish whether the chronograph counter is in its first (red sectors) or second (white sectors) 30-second revolution. 
By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Woodstock - SIHH 2013


This Tonda Tourbillon model bears on its dial the first Parmigiani Fleurier Marquetries . Each marquetry dial is the result of 10 days' work and comprises more than fifty pieces of dyed wood. These have been designed, cut and then assembled with meticulous care and the resulting dial appears perfectly flat to the naked eye.

The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 42mm x 11.5mm. It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and it is water resistant to 30 meters.

Movement is the Swiss hand-wind Parmigiani in-house caliber PF510 with Tourbillon and power reserve complications. This 30-second hand-wound tourbillon movement has 30 jewels, 21,600 vph and a one-week power reserve.movement has 30 jewels, 21,600 vph and a one-week power reserve.




 


By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com

quarta-feira, 30 de janeiro de 2013

Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 56-01 Saphir - SIHH 2013







By using a sapphire crystal baseplate – which supports the entire manually wound tourbillon movement – Richard Mille allows as much light as possible to penetrate into the caliber RM56-01, which displays the hours and minutes, with power-reserve and torque, at 11 and 2 o’clock respectively, and a function selector indicator at 4 o’clock.
Its three-part case is inspired by that of the RM 056, with each component – front bezel, caseband and back bezel – machined and ground from a solid block of sapphire crystal. Machining operations lasting for over 40 days, 24 hours a day, are required to produce one case. In order to machine it, a specialist CNC machine had to be purchased especially for the RM 56-01.
All the components made from sapphire crystal were machined by the world specialists in this material, Stettler, located in Lyss, Switzerland.
This case, which sits perfectly on the wrist, is water-resistant to 30 metres thanks to two O-ring seals in transparent Nitril, and is fixed around the caliber RM56-01 using 24 grade 5 titanium spline screws.

By horlogerie-suisse.com

Jaeger LeCoultre - Família Duomètre

Jaeger LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe - SIHH 2013

Duomètre à Chronographe

Características técnicas:

Reference:
6012521
Case material:
Pink Gold 18 carats
Strap/bracelet:
Alligator Leather
Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre
  • 380
Movement
  • Hand-winding
  • Pieces number : 390
  • Vibrations per hour : 21600
  • Power-reserve : 50 Hours
  • Jewels : 49
  • Barrel : 2
  • Height : 6.95 mm
Functions
  • Hour - Minute
  • Seconds
  • Chronograph
  • Hour counter
  • 60-minute counter
  • 60-second counter
  • Power-reserve
  • Jumping seconds
Case
  • Pink Gold 18 carats
  • Water resistance : 5 bar
Dial
  • Silvered, polished 4N appliques
Hands
  • Feuille
Strap/bracelet
  • Alligator Leather
Buckle
  • Pin Buckle 20.0 mm

Jaeger LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time - SIHH 2013

Duomètre Unique Travel Time

Características técnicas:

Reference:
606352J
Case material:
White Gold 18 carats
Strap/bracelet:
Alligator Leather

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre
  • 383
Movement
  • Mechanical
  • Pieces number : 498
  • Vibrations per hour : 28800
  • Power-reserve : 50 Hours
  • Jewels : 54
  • Barrel : 2
  • Height : 7.25 mm
Functions
  • Hour - Minute
  • Second time-zone
  • Jumping hour
  • 2nd time zone adjustable to the minute
  • World time
  • Map of the world
  • Day/Night indicator
Case
  • White Gold 18 carats
  • Water resistance : 5 bar
Dial
  • Silvered, polished black nickel applique numerals
Hands
  • Feuille
Strap/bracelet
  • Alligator Leather
Buckle
  • Pin Buckle 20.0 mm

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee - SIHH 2013

Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee
Características técnicas:

Reference:
5036420
Case material:
Platinum 950
Strap/bracelet:
Alligator Leather

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre
  • 176
Functions
  • Hour - Minute
  • Digital Instant Chronograph
  • Monopusher
  • Flying spherical tourbillon
Case
  • Platinum 950
  • Water resistance : 5 bar
Dial
  • Silvered
  • Silvered opaline
Hands
  • Dauphines
Strap/bracelet
  • Alligator Leather
Buckle
  • Double Folding Buckle 20.0 mm

terça-feira, 29 de janeiro de 2013

A. LANGE & SÖHNE - Pinnacle of watchmaking: Grand Complication - SIHH 2013

Masterpiece of fine watchmaking: GRANDE COMPLICATION. © A. Lange & Söhne

Características técnicas:

Mouvement 
- Lange manufacture calibre L1902, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; chronograph levers black-polished- Jewels: 67- Screwed gold chatons: 7- Escapement: Glashütte lever escapement, lever and escape wheel in 18- carat gold- Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance, superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 18,000 semi- oscillations per hour, precision index tail adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring- Power reserve when fully wound: Going train: 30 hours; grand strike: 30 hours; small strike: 42 hours
Functions
- Time display with hours and minutes- Chiming mechanism with grand and small strike- Minute repeater- Split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and jumping seconds- Perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month in four-year cycle- Moon phase
Operating elements
- Crown for winding the watch and setting the time- One pusher each for operating the chronograph and the rattrapante mechanism- Lever for activating and deactivating the chiming mechanism- Lever for selecting small and grand strike- Slide for actuating the minute repeater- Correction push pieces for advancing the date, day of week, month, and moon phase
Case dimensions
- Diameter: 50.0 millimetres- height: 20.3 millimetres
Movement dimensions
- Diameter: 40.5 millimetres- Height: 14.2 millimetres
Case
- Pink gold- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)
Dial
-  Five-part enamel dial
Hands
- Pink gold; minute counter, rattrapante hand and jumping se- conds hand blued steel
Strap
- Hand-stitched crocodile strap, red-brown
Buckle
- Lange deployant buckle in pink gold

AUDEMARS PIGUET - Grande Complication Royal Oak Offshore - SIHH 2013


Características técnicas:

•    Calibre 2885, selfwinding
•    Total diameter: 31.60 mm (14 lines)
•    Movement thickness: 8.95 mm
•    Number of jewels: 52
•    Number of parts: 648
•    Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 45 hrs
•    Cadence of the balance: 19,800 vph

CASES
Ref. 26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:
18K pink gold case (44 mm), glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, white ceramic crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m.

Ref. 26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:
Titanium case (44 mm), glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m.

DIALS
Ref. 26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:
Sapphire dial, white counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.

Ref. 26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:
Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.
 
FUNCTIONS
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds.
SPECIFIC CHARACTERISTICS
•    Grande Complication movement entirely openworked and assembled by hand
•    Column-wheel chronograph mechanism
•    Striking mechanism sounding on two gongs placed on the same level
•    Metallised sapphire moon-phase indicators
•    Customisable oscillating weight
•    Hand-finished cut-out parts (polished bevels, beadblasted, matt surface underneath)
•    Hand-finished bridges (rounded-off and polished bevels, satin-brushed flanks, circular-grained recesses)

STRAPS
Ref. 26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:
White rubber strap with 18K pink gold pin buckle.

Ref. 26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:
Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

REFERENCES
26571RO.OO.A010CA.01: 3-piece limited edition
26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: 3-piece limited edition


CARTIER - Rotonde Double Mystery Tourbillon - SIHH 2013

Rotonde Double Mystery Tourbillon © Cartier

Características técnicas:

Calibre 9454 MC Case platinum
Diameter 45 mm
Crown beaded, platinum, set with a sapphire cabochon
Crystal sapphire
Case back sapphire
Water-resistance 30 m / 100 feet / 3 bar
Dial slate-coloured, galvanised, guilloché, silvered open-work grill with sunray eect, black transferred Roman numerals
Hands sword-shaped in blued steel
Strap in black alligator skin, double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Movement Manufacture mechanical with manual winding, calibre 9454 MC, certified Geneva Seal,
double mystery tourbillon
Casing-up diameter 35 mm
Total diameter 35.5 mm
Thickness 5 mm
Number of jewels 25
Number of parts 242
Balance 21,600 vibrations / hour
Power reserve 52 hours
 

F.P.JOURNE - Quantième Perpétuel - SIHH 2013

Quantième Perpétuel. © F.P.Journe
Características técnicas:

Movement: Automatic Calibre FPJ 1300-3 in 18K rose gold (4N)
Off-centre 22K gold guilloché winding rotor
Unidirectional automatic winding
Dimensions of the movement: Overall diameter: 33.00 mm
Casing-up diameter: 30.40 mm
Overall height: 5.20 mm
Height of winding stem: 1.80 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90mm
Balance: Linear escapement 15 tooth.
Chronometric balance with inertia weight.
Anachron free-sprung flat balance spring.
Mobile stud holder.
Free sprung.
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring.
Pinned GE stud.
Barrel with slipping spring.
Frequency : 21,600 v/h, 3 Hz
Inertia : 10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift : 52°
Amplitude : 0 hr dial up: > 300°
24 hr dial up: > 220°
Autonomy : 160 ± 12 hours
Indications Central hours and minutes
indication of leap year with centred small hand,
1, 2, 3, in black; 4 for the leap year in red.
Day and month at 12 o’clock in 2 apertures.
Large date at 6 o’clock in double aperture.
Power reserve at 9 o’clock.