Breve história da relojoaria suíça

The Swiss watch and clock industry appeared in Geneva in the middle of the 16th century. In 1541, reforms implemented by Jean Calvin and banning the wear of jewels, forced the goldsmiths and other jewellers to turn into a new, independent craft : watchmaking. By the end of the century, Genevan watches were already reputable for their high quality, and watchmakers created in 1601 the Watchmakers' Guild of Geneva, the first to be established anywhere. One century later and because Geneva was already crowded with watchmakers, many of them decided to leave the city for the receptive region of the Jura Mountains. Watchmaking in the Jura remains indebted to a young goldsmith called Daniel Jeanrichard (1665-1741), who, for the first time, introduced the division of labour in watchmaking. In 1790, Geneva was already exporting more than 60,000 watches. The centuries were rich in inventions and new developments. In 1770, Abraham-Louis Perrelet created the "perpetual" watch (in French "Montre à secousses"), the forerunner of the modern self-winding watch. In 1842, pendant winding watches were invented by Adrien Philippe, one of the founders of the famous Patek Philippe watch company. At the same time began the production of complicated watches and the introduction of special features such as the perpetual calendar, the fly-back hand and chronographs. The Jura Mountains with its various watchmaking centres   The mass production of watches began at the turn of the 20th century, thanks to the researches and new technologies introduced by reputable watchmakers such as Frédéric Ingold and Georges Léchot. The increase of the productivity, the interchangeability of parts and the standardization progressively led the Swiss watch industry to its world supremacy. The end of World War I corresponds to the introduction of the wristwatch which soon became very popular. Its traditional round shape was generally adopted in 1960. In 1926, the first self-winding wristwatch was produced in Grenchen, the first electrical watches being introduced later in 1952. In 1967, the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) in Neuchâtel developed the world first quartz wristwatch - the famous Beta 21. Since then, major technical developments followed without interruption: LED and LCD displays, Swatch, quartz wristwatch without battery, etc. Since more than four centuries now, tradition, craftmanship, high technologies and permanent innovation have allowed Swiss watchmaking industry to keep its leadership in the world watch market. Because or thanks to the different crisis it had to go through, Swiss watchmaking industry has always been in a position to answer the many technological, economical and structural challenges it was confronted with. Its exceptional dynamism and creative power have made it a state-of-the-art industry, and the many inventions or world records in its possession are so many evidences : the first wristwatch, the first quartz watch, the first water resistant wristwatch, the thinnest wristwatch in the world, the smallest or the most expensive watch in the world, etc. Compared to today's quartz movements (left), the Beta 21 model (right), the first quartz movement for wrist watches with analog display, seems a veritable antique

The Swiss watch industry today

The watch and clock industry, Switzerland's third largest exporter after the machine and chemical industries, has only one market : The World. Swiss made timepieces are to be found in all the countries of the globe. And, what is no less surprising, to suit all pockets, or almost so : from quartz fashion watches for a modest price to mechanical masterpieces, made of gold and decorated with precious stones, costing several million francs. It is this wide variety and its worldwide vocation which together have ensured the survival of the industry over the course of centuries. Structures Historically, the Swiss watch and clock industry has always had a specialized horizontal structure in which suppliers, craftsmen and sub-contractors supply movements and external parts to assemblers called "établisseurs", who put the final product together. However, to a lesser extent, the industry has also developed a vertically integrated structure in which watches and clocks are sometimes made entirely by the same company, in this case called a "manufacture". During the 1970s and early 1980s, technological upheavals (appearance of the quartz technology) and the difficult economic situation resulted in a reduction in the size of the industry : the number of employees fell from some 90,000 in 1970 to a little over 30,000 in 1984, a figure which has remained stable over the last thirteen years (40,000 employees in 2004) while the number of companies decreased from about 1,600 in 1970 to about 600 now. The average number of employees per company has remained constant, at just under 70 people per company in 2004, as in 1970. The great majority of watch companies are small sized companies (employing less than 100 people) while a very little number (less than 10) are each employing over 500 people. Products One of the great strengths of the Swiss watch and clock industry, by comparison with its foreign competitors, is its ability to offer the consumer a genuinely comprehensive choice of products. Would you like a mechanical watch (handwound or automatic) or a quartz watch (with analog or digital display) ? Do you prefer a diamond-set watch of precious metal or one made of stainless steel, wood, plastic or even high tech ceramic ? Are your more attracted by a sober classic appearance, a sporty look or a fashionable and trendy design ? Whatever you want, you will always find something to satisfy you amongst the products of the Swiss watch industry. And if you prefer an alarm or other type of clock to a wristwatch, you will have difficulty in choosing from amongst the vast range of models offered by the Swiss manufacturers of this type of product. Markets and Competition While the Swiss watch industry is present all over the world (it exports nearly 95% of its production), it does not carry equal weight everywhere. Asia and Oceania take 56% of Swiss watch exports in value, Europe 29%, Americas 14% and Africa 1%...and the top fifteen countries represent over 82% of these exports. With their worldwide reputation for quality and styling, Swiss watches are not however the only ones to compete for the favours of customers. They have many competitors in the markets, the most serious of these being the Japanese and Hong Kong producers. In Short According to a number of economic analysts, the Swiss watch industry was moribond in the middle of the 1970s, having missed out the electronic revolution and being strongly affected by the economic crisis. But what is the situation now, thirty years later ? Having successfully completed its structural reconversion, the watch industry is today, as it was yesterday, one of the brightest stars in the Swiss economic firmament. Better still, during the last five or six years, it has taken the leading position amongst the country's most successful industries, breaking its own records in exporting each year and going from 4.3 billion francs in 1986 to 19.3 billion in 2011. By FIHS

WATCH EXPORTS - Marked increase in 2012

The Swiss watch industry recorded another vintage year in 2012 following its excellent showing in 2011. The value of watch exports rose to 21.4 billion francs last year. This represents an increase of 2.1 billion francs, or +10.9%.

Press release

The very strong growth of 2011, being unsustainable in the long term, gave rise to a uniform and welcome slowdown in the summer of 2012. While most monthly results were very dynamic, a number of more moderate variations held back growth in the second part of the year. This resulted in a below-average increase in November (+4.7%), while September (-1.4%) and December (-5.6%) recorded downturns. However these one-off fluctuations did not prevent the industry from ending the financial year with a remarkable increase.

In an often unfavourable economic climate the Swiss watch industry clearly managed to hold its own, while other export sectors unfortunately experienced more difficulties. The foundations of watch industry growth are strong and offer encouraging development prospects. Widespread investment to develop production in Switzerland is intended to meet growing demand and the sales potential of a number of still emerging markets. From this perspective, the year 2013 shows promise and should see watch exports continue to rise.


Products

Watch industry exports were comprised mainly of wristwatches. The latter recorded a value of 20.2 billion francs, an increase of 11.5% compared to 2011. The corresponding number of timepieces for its part fell slightly to 29.1 million units (-2.2%). However this level remains well above the average of recent years, situated at around 25 million timepieces. The increase in the average price to 693 francs is due mainly to the ever-larger share of the most expensive watches.

Gold timepieces (+20.5%) contributed greatly to the increase in value. The other main materials, namely steel (+8.2%) and bimetallic (+5.3%) recorded a significant but more moderate increase. In terms of the number of timepieces, upturns in several important materials such as steel, gold and bimetallic failed to compensate for the decline in the categories of other materials (-4.5%) and other metals (-7.9%). In the final analysis, Switzerland exported 640,000 fewer watches than in 2011.
Page 2
Timepieces costing less than 200 francs (export price), which accounted for 68% of total volumes, showed a negative trend in terms of the number of timepieces (-5.9%), while their value remained stable. Other price segments were more buoyant. Between 200 and 500 francs, the number of timepieces increased by 9.3%. The 500-3,000 francs range slightly exceeded its 2011 level: +0.3% by value. Watches costing more than 3,000 francs stood out by their very strong growth. Their value increased by 18.0% and the number of timepieces by 13.1%.

The value of other products exported by Swiss watch manufacturers totalled 1.2 billion francs, an increase of 2.0% compared to 2011. Among these products, watch movements posted a value of 223.4 million francs (+1.2%), with alarm clocks and other clocks recording a value of 50.3 million francs (+27.5%).


Markets

During the year 2012, the fifteen main markets showed the following trend (total value in million francs and % variation by comparison with 2011):

1. Hong Kong 4,370.7 +6.8%
2. USA 2,186.9 +10.1%
3. China 1,647.6 +0.6%
4. France 1,317.2 +1.3%
5. Germany 1,198.6 +33.1%
6. Italy 1,173.9 +16.0%
7. Singapore 1,124.7 - 1.9%
8. Japan 1,092.4 +19.7%
9. United Arab Emirates 855.2 +25.2%
10. United Kingdom 806.7 +22.4%
11. South Korea 482.2 +21.7%
12. Taiwan 435.8 +18.4%
13. Spain 418.0 +17.4%
14. Saudi Arabia 330.5 +15.4%
15. Russia 277.4 +9.0%

The main markets for Swiss watch exports showed a positive trend in 2012, with the exception of Singapore, where the decline was however modest (-1.9%). The leading market, Hong Kong, saw growth fall from more than 30% to 6.8% over twelve months, but finished with a particularly high value. China, in third place, recorded an even more spectacular slowdown, dropping from an increase of 50% to virtually zero growth at the end of 2012. These changes reflected a cooling of consumer demand in China, due in particular to political factors. The Chinese however remained important clients for the Swiss watch industry, particularly tourists on their travels abroad. In second place, the United States also lost ground, albeit in a much less marked fashion, ending the year with an increase close to the global average (+10.1%). Europe bounced back strongly from the spring, even though not all markets contributed to the same degree. After a major slowdown, France recorded virtually zero growth from the spring and ended the year with a variation of +1.3%. Germany's performance was in stark contrast however and improved steadily, ending the year with an increase of +33.1%. Italy also picked up the pace, albeit later and to a more modest extent, to end the year with an upturn of +16.0%. Other markets in Europe and the Middle East all recorded strong increases in value terms compared to 2011.

Livro - George Daniels, A Master Watchmaker & His Art

George Daniels, A Master Watchmaker & His Art

by Michael Clerizo

‘The watch must be original in design and conception and, when completed, beautiful in appearance.’
George Daniels, Watchmaking

Master watch designer and inventor George Daniels (1926–2011) was regarded as the finest exponent of his craft in the world. Over the course of his career he laboriously constructed just 25 unique mechanical watches using antiquated tools, creating almost every component by hand. Each is a work of great originality and exceptional beauty, and his creations are appreciated as milestones in the art of watchmaking.
While admired for their lucidity of appearance and unadorned dials, Daniels’s watches often house a raft of exquisite complications, such as tourbillons, thermometers and power reserve indicators. His more intricate designs also incorporate perpetual calendars and minute repeaters, as well as indictors displaying mean solar and sidereal time, the age and phases of the moon, and the equation of time.
Most significant of all Daniels’s contributions to the field of mechanical horology was a revolutionary invention of his own: the co-axial escapement. This, the first noteworthy advance in practical watch design since Thomas Mudge’s lever escapement of 1754, saved a mechanical watch industry in danger of being overwhelmed by mass-produced, quartz-controlled wristwatches.
Within this elegant volume, detailed photographs of all Daniels’s unique watches (both dial and movement) can be seen, alongside rare and previously unseen images from Daniels’s own archive of photographs and working drawings.
Michael Clerizo worked closely with George Daniels in the preparation of this book, the craftsman recounting episodes from his life and career over their innumerable conversations at his home on the Isle of Man. That ample biography is also contained herein, ensuring that the book is a fitting and authentic tribute to the greatest watchmaker of the modern era.

Publication date: end of February 2013.

216 Pages • 240 ill. • Format : 29.5 x 29.5 cm.
Prix : CHF 105.00 • € 93.00

Documentário de 1949 sobre o funcionamento de um relógio mecânico

O Jaeger LeCoultre Memovox de Charlie Chaplin

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique à Quantième Perpétuel Jubilee - SIHH 2013

Jaeger LeCoultre - Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee - SIHH 2013

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830 - SIHH 2013

 

The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 42mm x 8.8mm. It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back and it is water resistant to 50 meters.



Movement is the Swiss manual-wind LaJoux-Perret caliber 7381 with 21 jewels, 21,600 vph and a power reserve of 90 hours (via double barrels). It is adjusted to five positions, with Perlage and Cotes de Geneva decoration.

By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com
 

Hublot Big Bang Ferrari - Pre-Basel 2013

A fantastic first year of collaboration between Ferrari and Hublot is coming to an end. This has been highly successful, both commercially, with the two first Big Bangs in titanium and Magic Gold - the famous first ever scratch-resistant 18-carat gold invented by Hublot - and promotionally, with more than 130 events. This success is welcomed by Jean-Claude Biver, Chairman of Hublot, and Ricardo Guadalupe, the CEO of Hublot, and is already sparking ideas for new models. There are three which are already part of the Big Bang 45 mm family:

The first is the aptly named Big Bang Ferrari "Red Magic Carbon": It is the new symbol of the brand's progress towards verticalisation, with its case and its movement designed, developed, and produced entirely at the Hublot manufacture.

The UNICO movement is designed, developed, machined and assembled by the micro- mechanical engineers, engineers and watchmakers at Hublot. A practical flyback chronograph which can be reset at any time, and which is unique in the watchmaking industry, two push- buttons, with date indicator, and featuring a uniquely positioned mechanism with dual coupling and the famous "column wheel" visible on the dial side. Its development required a completely original approach and thinking outside the box: For example, the hour counter is driven directly by the barrel, and there is no jumper in the chronograph mechanism. This simplification boosts reliability and robustness. Its pallet fork and escapement wheel are fixed to a removable platform and are made from silicon, whose lightness provides a guarantee of performance. Its construction, which incorporates just 330 components, has been simplified as much as possible in order to further increase robustness.

This result is the fruit of continual adjustments made since 2009, the year it was launched, which have been carried out jointly by the technical office, the laboratory and the after-sales service in the manufacture. Its frequency of 4hz/28,800 vibrations per hour and its immaculate finish are also a guarantee of high chronometric quality. Finally, its automated production, which includes automation of the machining, stone fitting, oiling and numerous assembly operations also ensures consistent, controlled quality. Its power reserve is around 72 hours.

By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com

Zenith Christophe Colomb Academy Hurricane - Pre-Basel 2013

 

Limited Edition of 25 Pieces

The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 45mm x 14.3mm (21.4mm counting the sapphire glass extrusion for the gravity control cage. The crystal is an AR-coated sapphire, as is the display back, and it is water resistant to 30 meters.



Movement is the Swiss manual-wind Zenith in-house caliber El Primero 8805 with 53 jewels, 36,000 vph and a power reserve of 50 hours.



The movement is comprised of 939 parts, with the gravity control module having 575 parts.
The strap is brown alligator with rubber lining and 18kt rose gold triple folding clasp.
 

Breguet Type XXII Flyback Chronograph Gold - Pre-Basel 2013

Type XXII 3880, The First Series-Made Mechanical Chronograph with a 10 Hz Frequency (72,000 vph) New Version in Rose Gold

The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 44mm. It has a sapphire crystal and it is water resistant to 100 meters.

Movement is the Swiss automatic Breguet in-house caliber 589F with 27 jewels, 72,000 vph, and a power reserve of 40 hours. It features a high frequency silicon escapement, a Breguet balance-wheel with regulating screws, and a silicon balance-spring. It is adjusted to 5 positions.

The dial, in brown, features luminous hands and hour-markers and a chapter ring with Arabic numerals. Red chronograph's seconds hand on a 30-second basis at the center, Half-minute totalizer at the centerm 24 hour indicator at 3 o'clock, Second time zone indicator at 6 o'clock with luminous Arabic numerals, Small seconds on a 30-second basis at 9 o'clock. Date in an aperture at 6 o'clock.

The minutes graduation in the form of dashes one red and the other white situated on the flange, combined with the numbered seconds graduation also appearing in red and white, serves to establish whether the chronograph counter is in its first (red sectors) or second (white sectors) 30-second revolution. 
By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Woodstock - SIHH 2013

This Tonda Tourbillon model bears on its dial the first Parmigiani Fleurier Marquetries . Each marquetry dial is the result of 10 days' work and comprises more than fifty pieces of dyed wood. These have been designed, cut and then assembled with meticulous care and the resulting dial appears perfectly flat to the naked eye.

The case, in 18kt rose gold, measures 42mm x 11.5mm. It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a sapphire display back, and it is water resistant to 30 meters.

Movement is the Swiss hand-wind Parmigiani in-house caliber PF510 with Tourbillon and power reserve complications. This 30-second hand-wound tourbillon movement has 30 jewels, 21,600 vph and a one-week power reserve.movement has 30 jewels, 21,600 vph and a one-week power reserve.

 

By Jorge Merino - Timezone.com

Richard Mille Tourbillon RM 56-01 Saphir - SIHH 2013



By using a sapphire crystal baseplate – which supports the entire manually wound tourbillon movement – Richard Mille allows as much light as possible to penetrate into the caliber RM56-01, which displays the hours and minutes, with power-reserve and torque, at 11 and 2 o’clock respectively, and a function selector indicator at 4 o’clock.
Its three-part case is inspired by that of the RM 056, with each component – front bezel, caseband and back bezel – machined and ground from a solid block of sapphire crystal. Machining operations lasting for over 40 days, 24 hours a day, are required to produce one case. In order to machine it, a specialist CNC machine had to be purchased especially for the RM 56-01.
All the components made from sapphire crystal were machined by the world specialists in this material, Stettler, located in Lyss, Switzerland.
This case, which sits perfectly on the wrist, is water-resistant to 30 metres thanks to two O-ring seals in transparent Nitril, and is fixed around the caliber RM56-01 using 24 grade 5 titanium spline screws.

By horlogerie-suisse.com

Jaeger LeCoultre - Família Duomètre

Jaeger LeCoultre Duomètre à Chronographe - SIHH 2013

Características técnicas:

Reference:

6012521

Case material:

Pink Gold 18 carats

Strap/bracelet:

Alligator Leather

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre

• 380

Movement

• Hand-winding
• Pieces number : 390
• Vibrations per hour : 21600
• Power-reserve : 50 Hours
• Jewels : 49
• Barrel : 2
• Height : 6.95 mm

Functions

• Hour - Minute
• Seconds
• Chronograph
• Hour counter
• 60-minute counter
• 60-second counter
• Power-reserve
• Jumping seconds

Case

• Pink Gold 18 carats
• Water resistance : 5 bar

Dial

• Silvered, polished 4N appliques

Hands

• Feuille

Strap/bracelet

• Alligator Leather

Buckle

• Pin Buckle 20.0 mm

Jaeger LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time - SIHH 2013

Características técnicas:

Reference:

606352J

Case material:

White Gold 18 carats

Strap/bracelet:

Alligator Leather

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre

• 383

Movement

• Mechanical
• Pieces number : 498
• Vibrations per hour : 28800
• Power-reserve : 50 Hours
• Jewels : 54
• Barrel : 2
• Height : 7.25 mm

Functions

• Hour - Minute
• Second time-zone
• Jumping hour
• 2nd time zone adjustable to the minute
• World time
• Map of the world
• Day/Night indicator

Case

• White Gold 18 carats
• Water resistance : 5 bar

Dial

• Silvered, polished black nickel applique numerals

Hands

• Feuille

Strap/bracelet

• Alligator Leather

Buckle

• Pin Buckle 20.0 mm

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee - SIHH 2013

Características técnicas:

Reference:

5036420

Case material:

Platinum 950

Strap/bracelet:

Alligator Leather

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre

• 176

Functions

• Hour - Minute
• Digital Instant Chronograph
• Monopusher
• Flying spherical tourbillon

Case

• Platinum 950
• Water resistance : 5 bar

Dial

• Silvered
• Silvered opaline

Hands

• Dauphines

Strap/bracelet

• Alligator Leather

Buckle

• Double Folding Buckle 20.0 mm

A. LANGE & SÖHNE - Pinnacle of watchmaking: Grand Complication - SIHH 2013

Características técnicas:

Mouvement 

- Lange manufacture calibre L1902, manually wound, crafted to the most exacting Lange quality standards, decorated and assembled by hand; precision-adjusted in five positions; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; balance cock engraved by hand; chronograph levers black-polished- Jewels: 67- Screwed gold chatons: 7- Escapement: Glashütte lever escapement, lever and escape wheel in 18- carat gold- Oscillator: Shock-resistant screw balance, superior-quality balance spring manufactured in-house, frequency 18,000 semi- oscillations per hour, precision index tail adjustment system with lateral setscrew and whiplash spring- Power reserve when fully wound: Going train: 30 hours; grand strike: 30 hours; small strike: 42 hours

Functions

- Time display with hours and minutes- Chiming mechanism with grand and small strike- Minute repeater- Split-seconds chronograph with minute counter and jumping seconds- Perpetual calendar with date, day of week, month in four-year cycle- Moon phase

Operating elements

- Crown for winding the watch and setting the time- One pusher each for operating the chronograph and the rattrapante mechanism- Lever for activating and deactivating the chiming mechanism- Lever for selecting small and grand strike- Slide for actuating the minute repeater- Correction push pieces for advancing the date, day of week, month, and moon phase

Case dimensions

- Diameter: 50.0 millimetres- height: 20.3 millimetres

Movement dimensions

- Diameter: 40.5 millimetres- Height: 14.2 millimetres

Case

- Pink gold- Crystal and caseback: Sapphire crystal (hardness 9)

Dial

-  Five-part enamel dial

Hands

- Pink gold; minute counter, rattrapante hand and jumping se- conds hand blued steel

Strap

- Hand-stitched crocodile strap, red-brown

Buckle

- Lange deployant buckle in pink gold

AUDEMARS PIGUET - Grande Complication Royal Oak Offshore - SIHH 2013

Características técnicas:

•    Calibre 2885, selfwinding
•    Total diameter: 31.60 mm (14 lines)
•    Movement thickness: 8.95 mm
•    Number of jewels: 52•    Number of parts: 648
•    Minimum guaranteed power reserve: 45 hrs
•    Cadence of the balance: 19,800 vph

CASES
Ref. 26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:
18K pink gold case (44 mm), glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, white ceramic crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m.

Ref. 26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:
Titanium case (44 mm), glareproofed sapphire crystal and case-back, black ceramic bezel, crown and pushpieces, water-resistant to 20 m.

DIALS
Ref. 26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:
Sapphire dial, white counters, pink gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.

Ref. 26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:
Sapphire dial, white counters, white gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating, light silver-toned inner bezel ring.

 

FUNCTIONS
Minute repeater, perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, hours, minutes, small seconds.
SPECIFIC CHARACTERISTICS
•    Grande Complication movement entirely openworked and assembled by hand
•    Column-wheel chronograph mechanism
•    Striking mechanism sounding on two gongs placed on the same level
•    Metallised sapphire moon-phase indicators
•    Customisable oscillating weight
•    Hand-finished cut-out parts (polished bevels, beadblasted, matt surface underneath)
•    Hand-finished bridges (rounded-off and polished bevels, satin-brushed flanks, circular-grained recesses)

STRAPS
Ref. 26571RO.OO.A010CA.01:
White rubber strap with 18K pink gold pin buckle.

Ref. 26571IO.OO.A010CA.01:
Black rubber strap with titanium pin buckle.

REFERENCES
26571RO.OO.A010CA.01: 3-piece limited edition
26571IO.OO.A010CA.01: 3-piece limited edition

CARTIER - Rotonde Double Mystery Tourbillon - SIHH 2013

Características técnicas:

Calibre 9454 MC Case platinum
Diameter 45 mm
Crown beaded, platinum, set with a sapphire cabochon
Crystal sapphire
Case back sapphire
Water-resistance 30 m / 100 feet / 3 bar
Dial slate-coloured, galvanised, guilloché, silvered open-work grill with sunray eect, black transferred Roman numerals
Hands sword-shaped in blued steel
Strap in black alligator skin, double adjustable folding buckle in 18-carat white gold
Movement Manufacture mechanical with manual winding, calibre 9454 MC, certified Geneva Seal,
double mystery tourbillon
Casing-up diameter 35 mm
Total diameter 35.5 mm
Thickness 5 mm
Number of jewels 25
Number of parts 242
Balance 21,600 vibrations / hour
Power reserve 52 hours 

F.P.JOURNE - Quantième Perpétuel - SIHH 2013

Características técnicas:

Movement: Automatic Calibre FPJ 1300-3 in 18K rose gold (4N)
Off-centre 22K gold guilloché winding rotor
Unidirectional automatic winding
Dimensions of the movement: Overall diameter: 33.00 mm
Casing-up diameter: 30.40 mm
Overall height: 5.20 mm
Height of winding stem: 1.80 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90mm
Balance: Linear escapement 15 tooth.
Chronometric balance with inertia weight.
Anachron free-sprung flat balance spring.
Mobile stud holder.
Free sprung.
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring.
Pinned GE stud.
Barrel with slipping spring.
Frequency : 21,600 v/h, 3 Hz
Inertia : 10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift : 52°
Amplitude : 0 hr dial up: > 300°
24 hr dial up: > 220°
Autonomy : 160 ± 12 hours
Indications Central hours and minutes
indication of leap year with centred small hand,
1, 2, 3, in black; 4 for the leap year in red.
Day and month at 12 o’clock in 2 apertures.
Large date at 6 o’clock in double aperture.
Power reserve at 9 o’clock.